October 23, 2014, 11:13:07 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Login with username, password and session length
News:
 
   Home   Help Search Calendar Gallery Login Register  
Pages: [1] 2
  Print  
Author Topic: rear mounted storage box  (Read 9116 times)
gary02hartley
Wheel Chocker
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 5


« on: May 08, 2012, 05:56:03 PM »

 Hey,I have a1995 coleman pop up with a manuel crank in the rear bumper.I want to build a removable rack to hold a storage box,probably a pickup truck tool box.Has anyone done this ?Suggestions?Pictures?  PopUp Blue
Logged
beemerphile1
Parking Heckler
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 3091


NE Ohio


« Reply #1 on: May 08, 2012, 06:20:04 PM »

...I want to build a removable rack to hold a storage box,probably a pickup truck tool box....Pictures?...

Here is my suggestion, don't do it.

Here is a picture of what happens when you mount things on an RV bumper;
Logged

Tim
32 nights camped in 2014
30 nights camped in 2013
33 nights camped in 2012
36 nights camped in 2011

Momma said; "If you argue with a fool, it makes it hard to tell which one is the fool".


2009 Pontiac Vibe 1.8L towing 2009 Aliner Sport  Chalet/AlinerCar Blue
1998 Ford E150 towing 2006 Weekend Warrior FK1900 TravTrl Long Blue Van Blue
1996 BMW R1100GS
2005 Trek Madone
1994 Burley tandem
gec66
Chocks-a-lot
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 415



« Reply #2 on: May 08, 2012, 06:22:52 PM »

There is usually a whole other problem with a plan like yours.  The weight distribution on a pup is very sensitive.  Any weight you add that far back you have to counter with weight at the front of the box to keep the tongue weight at least 10% of the trailer weight.  Any lighter than 10% on the tongue weight and you will encounter serious sway issues.
Logged

2007 Honda Odyssey
2004 Fleetwood Bayside
Prodigy P2
Reese 400 Single Bar WDH
K9Sergeant
Guest
« Reply #3 on: May 08, 2012, 07:18:48 PM »

I agree 100%, do not add weight to the rear of the pup.  Even bulking up the bumper to avoid the picture that Beemerphile posted will not help things.

Our travel trailer has a rear hitch from the factory.  The rating on it is a whopping 150lbs!  Imagine that!?  A hitch on a travel trailer and they are saying don't put more than 150lbs weight on it.

The "bounce" experienced that far back on the trailer will likely shred anything clinging to the back bumper.

If I have a bunch of stuff that won't fit in the camper or TV (or on top the tv in a storage box), I am packing too much junk!  Its camping, don't try to over do it and bring half the house. 

We have two kids (both pretty young) and they require a lot of extra junk.  We manage to still have plenty of room.  I would love to have more tools and toys along for the trip, but I made good with what I have.  If I need more, I'll ask around for a hand (hasn't happened yet thankfully!)
Logged
94-D2
Back-er-in-er
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 755


Amador County, CA.


WWW
« Reply #4 on: May 08, 2012, 07:43:31 PM »

Depending on your type of trailer and TV, you can accomplish this task if your equipment is appropriate.  Be warned that you will not find anyone (accept me) who will recommend it, nor would I without knowing what your equipment is.  Any modification done to accommodate your plan must be done with skill and quality materials. 

Here is my setup  Custom built, fabricated mounting (extension) and road tested.  I pull this setup with a Toyota FJC  fitted with air springs, tranny cooler and friction swaybar.  solid as a rock to more than 70 mph on mountain highways.





Logged

Happy Campin'    Hybrid Silver SUV White
J

2011 Coleman Avalon,
2008 Toyota FJC
SeaEagle Explorer 420/330
2009 Specialized hardrock
Former PUP:  2001 Coleman Niagara

Nights camped 2014. 21
K9Sergeant
Guest
« Reply #5 on: May 08, 2012, 08:02:57 PM »

This ^^^ is clearly the exception to the rule.  (Nice mod by the way!)

I am 100% certain that the OP's pup is no where close to what you are pulling, thus my post advising against it.

Back bumper mounts are not bad in all situations, but they can certainly turn into a disaster in short order if they are not done properly or loaded within the limits of the equipment they are mounted to. (not to mention the sway issue when loading a trailer tongue light)
Logged
Briconz
Chocks-a-lot
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 133


« Reply #6 on: May 09, 2012, 06:33:27 PM »

I'd have to agree with 94-D2 that it can be done if done right. I've had a 300lb motorcyle on the back of our pup for several thousand miles on a rack I built, and could not tell it was back there while towing.
 In the world of engineering much can be done, question is can you do it safely? For perspective the tongue weight on ours is 400lbs unloaded, with the front storage deck at capacity it would be closer to 900lbs, so the typical concerns of sway from too much weight in the back are not really an issue.
  As mentioned, it depends on your particular set up.
Logged

'01 Suburban 2500 4x4 6.0l
'88 Blazer 4x4 5.7l
'08 Jeep Rubicon Unlimited
'83 Jeep CJ-7
'08 Starcraft 34RT
K9Sergeant
Guest
« Reply #7 on: May 09, 2012, 07:15:12 PM »

I'd have to agree with 94-D2 that it can be done if done right.

Isn't that what I said as well?

You can build anything, but before you start you should evaluate the structure, the use of the structure, and the capability of the structure to withstand the forces exerted on it when it is put to use. 

« Last Edit: May 09, 2012, 07:18:56 PM by Flester1 » Logged
Oz and Us
PUX is my life
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 28149


Burlington, Ontario, Canada


WWW
« Reply #8 on: May 10, 2012, 04:26:05 AM »

I custom built a small 2.5 cu ft storage box (5 pics) for the rear of our Santa Fe that worked quite well for carrying hoses, cables, propane adapters, etc.  It didn't unload the tongue in any measurable way and didn't negatively affect handling at all because the overall load added to the rear of the trailer was relatively little compared to the total weight of the trailer, about 2%.
Logged

Oz Mods Gallery

'14 Freedom Express 192RBS / '05 Avalanche 4x2
'03 Fleetwood Yuma / '05 Avalanche 4x2
'08 KZ Spree 240BH-LX / '05 Avalanche 4x2
'07 RVision TrailCruiser C21RBH / '06 Silverado 4x4
2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe / '98 Explorer 4x4
'98 Jayco Eagle 10UD / '94 Caravan
'69 Coleman CT380 / '65 Impala

"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy!"
gary02hartley
Wheel Chocker
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 5


« Reply #9 on: May 10, 2012, 03:44:55 PM »

Thanks so much for the ideas and opinions .This is our first camper.I pull it with a 1998 chevyZ71 4x4.It doesn't know it's back there.I don't think weight would be an issue.If I do it ,it will be well thought out and I'll get a professional to do all the welding.Thanks again.gary02hartley
Logged
regis101
Chocks-a-lot
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 446


« Reply #10 on: May 10, 2012, 04:12:45 PM »

94's situation works. 

But for me, the frame is 12" AFF.  If I was to extend the rear at that elevation with a box and deeper than 12", the decreased departure angle wouldn't allow me to get out of my own driveway.
Logged

Peace,
Me, wifey, two kidz
2010 Palomino Y-4100
'98 E150 Club Wagon
94-D2
Back-er-in-er
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 755


Amador County, CA.


WWW
« Reply #11 on: May 10, 2012, 05:54:55 PM »

94's situation works. 

But for me, the frame is 12" AFF.  If I was to extend the rear at that elevation with a box and deeper than 12", the decreased departure angle wouldn't allow me to get out of my own driveway.

I extended 24" and raised the rear tube bumper to the top of the frame rails.  I was also concerned about the departure angle so I improved it.  I was raking at stock hieghth witch IMO was too low to begin with.  Of course since I modified he bumper I had to modify the bed supports as well.  Have not hit bottom since.


« Last Edit: May 10, 2012, 05:57:18 PM by 94-D2 » Logged

Happy Campin'    Hybrid Silver SUV White
J

2011 Coleman Avalon,
2008 Toyota FJC
SeaEagle Explorer 420/330
2009 Specialized hardrock
Former PUP:  2001 Coleman Niagara

Nights camped 2014. 21
UNI
Chocks-a-lot
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 309


Camping, Canoeing, Hike/Backpacking & Bicycling


WWW
« Reply #12 on: May 11, 2012, 06:19:26 AM »

94-D2,

Great job on the mod.

I LIKE IT!

Alan [UNI]
Logged

"The farther one gets into the wilderness, the greater is the attraction of its lonely freedom." Theodore Roosevelt
94-D2
Back-er-in-er
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 755


Amador County, CA.


WWW
« Reply #13 on: May 11, 2012, 06:37:04 AM »

 Montana

Thanks much.  The box has made a huge impact on storage and camp logistics.  Appreciate the comments

J Cool
Logged

Happy Campin'    Hybrid Silver SUV White
J

2011 Coleman Avalon,
2008 Toyota FJC
SeaEagle Explorer 420/330
2009 Specialized hardrock
Former PUP:  2001 Coleman Niagara

Nights camped 2014. 21
hankallan
Wheel Chocker
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 23


« Reply #14 on: May 11, 2012, 04:59:50 PM »

Here's a ghetto mod job done for about $20. We used it to hold lighter things like screen room, balls, empty jugs and such.



Was pretty handy but definitely caused a little bit of sway, depending on weight of stuff inside. Though much of the weight was from the heavy metal brackets used to support the box. Not to mention all the extra weight of the many poles in the other mod shown - the round screen room container.  Big Smile
Logged

2005 Fleetwood Sequoia
1994 Starcraft Starmaster 1224 *SOLD*
Pages: [1] 2
  Print  
 
Jump to:  



Powered by SMF 1.1.8 | SMF © 2006-2008, Simple Machines LLC